Since our return to Orange County from Ecuador, we have been busy trying to figure out exactly how to disengage from our life here and start a new one as an ex-pat in a foreign country where we do not speak the language yet. I suspect that some of our friends seriously think we have lost our minds. Others have wondered how we could move so far away from our children (Pam and I both have one adult child who lives locally: Pam has an adorable 6 year old grandson). I am a psychologist and some of my patients are feeling a little abandoned, even though I reassure that it will be awhile before it really happens.
Complicating the matter is my conflict over retirement and dealing with all the issues that many almost-retired people face. For instance, I wonder what I will do with myself all day in Ecuador; I have worked daily since 12 years old and may actually miss it! Fortunately, I have an online business (anger management programs and marriage education products) which will transition well in Ecuador, as they have excellent broad-band internet there. So, it is only my local clinical practice that I would be leaving.
When I mentioned this to other gringos in Cuenca, some asked: "So, why don't you practice locally in Cuenca: ex-pats needs therapy too! This opened my eyes to new opportunities that I hadn't considered before. I have no idea what licensing laws for psychologists are in Ecuador, but I will give it some thought (and maybe research).
We have contacted a Realtor to list our house. We are also considering renting it out until the local housing market picks up, but the jury is still out on the wisdom of this. Been in this house for 28 years, so selling it is more of an emotional challenge than I thought it would be. Seemed easier when I was in Cuenca. Still, life is about transition and change, I remind myself. What to do with all the furniture? Sell it? Store it? What shoud we take? What if we do all this and decide we don't like Ecuador enough to live there permanently?
Stay tuned.........
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Reflections on Ecuador
Hello everyone. We are now back in California after a 4 week stay in Ecuador including stays in Quito, Cotachachi, and Cuenca. Had a nice trip back home after a scare in Quito when I got called to the airline (COPA) boarding desk because about 10 passengers' suitcases were randomly picked by Interpol for inspection. This about 30 minutes before takeoff! All ended well when they decided I wasn't a terrorist, after all.
We are now seriously considering retiring in Ecuador. Here are some reflections I have had since my return:
Here is a typical view from the apartments:
If you are staying in Cuenca, stay at a hostel (bed and breakfast) called Casa Ordonez run by Alberto, his mother and two sisters who are presently in the United States.His staff is excellent. They are dedicated, incredibly helpful, and efficient.
Alberto is a one-man support system and a strong advocate of Ex-pats moving to Ecuador. He has dual citizenship, was in the U.S. Navy, and knows Americans and their needs well. Their hostel has been in the family for years.No matter what you need - tours-medicine-haircut-American expat meetings-activities- restaurants-apartments-establishing residence-attorneys-Alberto is very willing to help. He is an incredible support and speaks English flawlessly.
We are now seriously considering retiring in Ecuador. Here are some reflections I have had since my return:
- I will never drive in Ecuador. I will probably sell both my cars here and take a taxi or bus down there. You can go anywhere in the city for a $2 taxi ride or a $.25 bus ride. Even then, it is wise to be intoxicated before hiring a taxi because even being a passenger is not for the faint-hearted. One taxi driver we hired side-swiped another as we were going to the airport. On the freeway,some drivers share a lane with wide buses while passing on narrow curves and steep hills.
- You order bottled water "sin gas" or "con gas." This does not refer to your desire for intestinal discomfort, but to your choice of or not
- In Cuenca you can live very well on less than $3000 a month including rent. This includes having a maid, eating out, and enjoying life.Here is a one of the high-rise buildings called Palermo where many gringos live. You can rent a 1200 square foot apartmnt here for about $400-$500 a month and a furnished apartment up to 1500-1700 square feet for maybe $700. This often also includes utilities.
Here is a typical view from the apartments:
If you are staying in Cuenca, stay at a hostel (bed and breakfast) called Casa Ordonez run by Alberto, his mother and two sisters who are presently in the United States.His staff is excellent. They are dedicated, incredibly helpful, and efficient.
Alberto is a one-man support system and a strong advocate of Ex-pats moving to Ecuador. He has dual citizenship, was in the U.S. Navy, and knows Americans and their needs well. Their hostel has been in the family for years.No matter what you need - tours-medicine-haircut-American expat meetings-activities- restaurants-apartments-establishing residence-attorneys-Alberto is very willing to help. He is an incredible support and speaks English flawlessly.
- The expats in Cuenca are extremely friendly and encouraging to move there. Some expats hang together while others believe they should integrate more into the general community. The experience is being with like-minded people who share many common interests. On our last night there, Alberto threw a little party and all had a great time. Joseph wowed us with his piano playing.......
- While we are highly motivated to make the move, it is complicated to unwind things back home in Orange County. We will be meeting with a Realtor tomorrow to see what our house is worth these days. I have talked with my business partner about possible buy-outs, etc. Then there is the question of what to do with all our furniture, how do we handle medical care, etc. Will be sharing all this information in future blogs as we continue our adventure.......
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Our Day in Yungilla Valley
Yungilla Valley is a gorgeous stretch of land about 60 miles south of Cuenca, off the Pan American highway. We had met two other couples at our hostel (the Casa Ordonez) and all six of us decided to hire a driver, Fabian, for a day trip to Yungilla Valley. Fabian spoke excellent English which made the trip all that much more enjoyable. One of the couples with us was from Phoenix, here on a stopover from a Peru visit. The other couple was from Florida and were visiting with the thought in mind of buying and renovating property here. Meeting and connecting with fellow American travelers was a real if unexpected bonus of our Cuenca stay.
As we made our way toward the Yungilla Valley, our altitude dropped from about 8500 feet to, I think, about 6500 feet. It became noticeably warmer as we descended.The scenery was breathtaking:
After a lunch of "trucha" (trout) and "papas fritos" (french fries) in a local restaurant, we headed home with our new friends. Just to give you a flavor of the type of people who come here, Tom (left) is an entrepreneur/businessman from Florida looking for an investment/business here. Bob (right) is a retired airline pilot/sculptor, professional traveler who has been to over 80 countries with his lovely wife.
As we made our way toward the Yungilla Valley, our altitude dropped from about 8500 feet to, I think, about 6500 feet. It became noticeably warmer as we descended.The scenery was breathtaking:
A
Our ultimate goal was to view beautiful waterfalls near a town called Santa Elizabeth. To get there, we went through numerous other villages or towns such as Giron. Here are some pictures of the villages taken from our car:
 | ||||||
| Finally, we made it to the waterfalls: |
After a lunch of "trucha" (trout) and "papas fritos" (french fries) in a local restaurant, we headed home with our new friends. Just to give you a flavor of the type of people who come here, Tom (left) is an entrepreneur/businessman from Florida looking for an investment/business here. Bob (right) is a retired airline pilot/sculptor, professional traveler who has been to over 80 countries with his lovely wife.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Around Cuenca
We have spent most of the week in Cuenca to get a feel for what it would be like if we actually lived here. As I have mentioned before, Cuenca is a beautiful, historic city of about 400,000 people. Here are a few more pictures around Central Park which is surrounded by churches and ornate government buildings.
Many gringos as well as Ecuadorians hang out in this park. We even had a woman approach us from Santa Barbara, CA who, as it turns out, had a brother-in-law psychologist in Orange County whom I used to practice with. What are the odds of that happening?
On Thursday night we went to the opera in Cuenca. called "El Elixir De Amor" (The elixir of love) produced by the faculty of Arts of the University of Cuenca in its tenth anniversary. Very nice opera at his opera house:
The opera house itself was not exactly the Orange County Performance Art Center, but the play itself was wonderful, and we got excellent seats for $10 each (top price tickets).
Friday night was "gringo night" at a local restaurant called Zoe's. Two hours of networking while having a cocktail or two.People there were in various stages of transition to life in Ecuador. One couple had just bought a house here today. Other couples have been here for years. Some were just looking, like us. Everyone we talked to seemed to love it here and would not want to live again in the United States.
People' s motives for coming here were varied, but the most common theme was to live better on less money as they retire. Some came down here essentially broke. Some seem fearful that the US economy will collapse and want to be prepared. Others have been very successful and just want a change in life style and scenery. Some are fully retired. Others are "retired" but then start small business here like real estate, or computer repair, or handyman work. I had anticipated having to give up my psychology clinical practice when I moved here, but locals encouraged me to consider setting up a practice in Cuenca to help ex-pats. Not sure what the laws are here to practice psychology: will have to put that on my "to do" list to find out.
Some people rent for a while and others buy property almost instantly. Some bring their furniture and belongings, while others sell everything back home and buy new stuff here. You can ship everything here in 20 or 40 foot containers for $5,000- $12,000, depending on lots of variables. Most people sell their cars in the United States and don't need to buy new ones here because of excellent public transportation, walking (most people lose weight here because of all the extra walking), and the extensive taxi system.
Shopping? We decided to check out a large store-complex called super-maxi.It has a grocery store plus other stores like a California mall.
Prices were not as cheap was we had anticipated. Vegetables and local produced products were very much cheaper, but many American foods (which had to be imported) were actually more expensive than at Cosco's in the US. Locals tell us that groceries are much cheaper at other places, but it was nice to be in an American-style supermarket.
The weather here is pretty much as advertised. Spring-like. It has rained at least a little almost every day, but then the sun often comes out. We typically dress in layers so we are prepared for most anything.
Many gringos as well as Ecuadorians hang out in this park. We even had a woman approach us from Santa Barbara, CA who, as it turns out, had a brother-in-law psychologist in Orange County whom I used to practice with. What are the odds of that happening?
On Thursday night we went to the opera in Cuenca. called "El Elixir De Amor" (The elixir of love) produced by the faculty of Arts of the University of Cuenca in its tenth anniversary. Very nice opera at his opera house:
The opera house itself was not exactly the Orange County Performance Art Center, but the play itself was wonderful, and we got excellent seats for $10 each (top price tickets).
Friday night was "gringo night" at a local restaurant called Zoe's. Two hours of networking while having a cocktail or two.People there were in various stages of transition to life in Ecuador. One couple had just bought a house here today. Other couples have been here for years. Some were just looking, like us. Everyone we talked to seemed to love it here and would not want to live again in the United States.
People' s motives for coming here were varied, but the most common theme was to live better on less money as they retire. Some came down here essentially broke. Some seem fearful that the US economy will collapse and want to be prepared. Others have been very successful and just want a change in life style and scenery. Some are fully retired. Others are "retired" but then start small business here like real estate, or computer repair, or handyman work. I had anticipated having to give up my psychology clinical practice when I moved here, but locals encouraged me to consider setting up a practice in Cuenca to help ex-pats. Not sure what the laws are here to practice psychology: will have to put that on my "to do" list to find out.
Some people rent for a while and others buy property almost instantly. Some bring their furniture and belongings, while others sell everything back home and buy new stuff here. You can ship everything here in 20 or 40 foot containers for $5,000- $12,000, depending on lots of variables. Most people sell their cars in the United States and don't need to buy new ones here because of excellent public transportation, walking (most people lose weight here because of all the extra walking), and the extensive taxi system.
Shopping? We decided to check out a large store-complex called super-maxi.It has a grocery store plus other stores like a California mall.
Prices were not as cheap was we had anticipated. Vegetables and local produced products were very much cheaper, but many American foods (which had to be imported) were actually more expensive than at Cosco's in the US. Locals tell us that groceries are much cheaper at other places, but it was nice to be in an American-style supermarket.
The weather here is pretty much as advertised. Spring-like. It has rained at least a little almost every day, but then the sun often comes out. We typically dress in layers so we are prepared for most anything.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Our Day Trip to Ingapirca
Pam and I had a wonderful day trip today to Ingapirca which is the largest pre-Columbian architectural complex in Ecudaor. We hired Miguel, a driver , to take us there. Took 2 1/2 hours to get there from Cuenca using both the Pan American highway and many other, sometimes partially paved and bumpy roads. But the scenery was gorgeous with the verdant Andes in the background, breathtaking valleys, and gradually building mist and dropping temperatures as we climbed higher and higher into the mountains.
We passed many indigenous people as we drove through numerous small villages sometimes dodging cows, pigs, and sheep, as well as pot-holes in the road. Good thing Miguel was an experienced driver and had a 4-wheel drive vehicle. His English was excellent and he was very willing to share perceptions about Ecuador and comparisons between his home country and the United States where his family currently resides (in New York City).
Finally we arrived at Ingapirca which means "the wall of the Inca". The Incas arrived here around 1470. Before then, the indigenous Canari people had inhabited the area. It is believed that both the Canari and the Incas used Ingapirca as a religious site. According to guide books, it was common for the Incas to build religious palaces over the ruins of a conquered culture
When the Incas conquered the area, they ordered all Canari men to move to Cusco. In the meantime, Inca men took up residence with Canari women, to subtly impose Inca beliefs on the local culture.
Ingapirca is a mix of Canari and Inca Influences.
The highlight of the site is El Adoratoria/Castillo, an elliptical structure believed to be a temple in the sun:
The scenery is stunning around this site with llama and sheep grazing on the hills. A deep feeling of serenity overtakes many who see it:
We even learned how the Incas kept a calendar by using holes in rocks and filtering rays of sunlight: Amazing:
Back in the car and heading home, we reflected on the amazing architects and builders the Incas were. It is still unclear to me exactly what happened to the Incas. Maybe we'll learn more as we visit more places.
We passed many indigenous people as we drove through numerous small villages sometimes dodging cows, pigs, and sheep, as well as pot-holes in the road. Good thing Miguel was an experienced driver and had a 4-wheel drive vehicle. His English was excellent and he was very willing to share perceptions about Ecuador and comparisons between his home country and the United States where his family currently resides (in New York City).
Finally we arrived at Ingapirca which means "the wall of the Inca". The Incas arrived here around 1470. Before then, the indigenous Canari people had inhabited the area. It is believed that both the Canari and the Incas used Ingapirca as a religious site. According to guide books, it was common for the Incas to build religious palaces over the ruins of a conquered culture
When the Incas conquered the area, they ordered all Canari men to move to Cusco. In the meantime, Inca men took up residence with Canari women, to subtly impose Inca beliefs on the local culture.
Ingapirca is a mix of Canari and Inca Influences.
The highlight of the site is El Adoratoria/Castillo, an elliptical structure believed to be a temple in the sun:
The scenery is stunning around this site with llama and sheep grazing on the hills. A deep feeling of serenity overtakes many who see it:
We even learned how the Incas kept a calendar by using holes in rocks and filtering rays of sunlight: Amazing:
Back in the car and heading home, we reflected on the amazing architects and builders the Incas were. It is still unclear to me exactly what happened to the Incas. Maybe we'll learn more as we visit more places.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Our Trip To The Orchid Factory
Several days ago, we hired a driver, Miguel, to take Pam and I plus one other couple we met (Don and Elizabeth from Chicago) to a town north of Cuenca called Gualaceo. Before I tell you about the orchids, a word about Miguel, a 31 year old Ecuadorian who lives on farm with cows. He lived in New York City as a chauffeur where he earned enough money to return home to purchase is farm. His wife and two teenage children remain in New York.Because of his time in New York, his English was good enough for us to communicate, combined with our limited espanol.
On to the orchid factory, called Ecuagenera. (http://www.ecuagenera.com). We learned that the orchid family, one of the most populous of all plant families is of great importance to Ecuador. It is believed that there are more than 4000 species of orchids in Ecuador, ranking this country as one of the most richly populated areas of the world.
This is our guide, Michelle:
This is the first step of a seven-year process. Seedlings are placed in sealed bottles and stored at a specific temperature.
One of the final results is the beautiful monkey-face orchid. Incredible! Following is another variety which are endless.
On to the orchid factory, called Ecuagenera. (http://www.ecuagenera.com). We learned that the orchid family, one of the most populous of all plant families is of great importance to Ecuador. It is believed that there are more than 4000 species of orchids in Ecuador, ranking this country as one of the most richly populated areas of the world.
This is our guide, Michelle:
One of the final results is the beautiful monkey-face orchid. Incredible! Following is another variety which are endless.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Exploring Cuenca and Meeting ExPats
This week has been one of making friends, exploring Cuenca and and trying to imagine ourselves perhaps retired down here from the USA. Many people here are in the same process. Exactly how many people have already made the decision - expats - is somewhat of a mystery. A recent blog which seemed credible puts the number of expats at from 800-900. Other people say the actually number is more like 2500 or so. Regardless, everyone we talk to who moved here says they love it and mad the right decision. (I guess the ones who didn't like it probably went home).
Take the George Evans family from San Diego. They own a gringo restaurant called California Kitchen in Cuenca. Whole family moved down and opened their "ethnic" restaurant. "We just sold 45 years of stuff back in the states and moved here in May," says George with a big smile on his face.
People who move here do so for different reasons. Some just want a new adventure in life. Others are disillusioned with the US or are afraid of the poor economic conditions and don't have confidence the USA will recover from its current problems. Others want to retire with enough money to enjoy life, which is becoming increasingly difficult to do back home. That is a major motivator for Pam and I. At 67, I could certainly continue my nice life style in Southern California, but unfortunately, I would have to keep working to do so. Here I could live on 1/4 the money that would be required back home.
The cost of living here is pretty much what the other blogs have indicated. You can rent a nice unfurnished apartment (condo) in Cuenca for about $200- $500 per month. Add Utilities and furnishings and you maybe are talking $450- $700 per month. You can buy these same places for anywhere from $59000 to $160,000 depending on location. We are torn between renting and buying but we are leaning toward renting until we get our feet on the ground. I think that the economy of Ecuador is growing at 9% a year, so people tell us that purchasing is a very good investment. Not sure what the inflation rate is.
Food is inexpensive and free of toxins and chemicals. Transportation by bus or cab is also very reasonable. For 25cents you can take a bus anywhere in Cuenca. Taxis are only about $1.50 or $2 for a ride anywhere in the city.
If we move here, we would sell both our cars in the U.S. and probably not buy another one.
Cuenca is a very beautiful city rich in history and tradition. We took a bus tour several days ago ($5 for a 2-hour tour). Here are some scenes I shot atop a double-deck bus:
There are so many beautiful scenes framed by the Andes mountains and clear, blue sky. More later.
In our next blog entry I will take you on an incredible orchid tour called Ecuagenera.
For now, adios, hasta luego.
Tony and Pam
Take the George Evans family from San Diego. They own a gringo restaurant called California Kitchen in Cuenca. Whole family moved down and opened their "ethnic" restaurant. "We just sold 45 years of stuff back in the states and moved here in May," says George with a big smile on his face.
People who move here do so for different reasons. Some just want a new adventure in life. Others are disillusioned with the US or are afraid of the poor economic conditions and don't have confidence the USA will recover from its current problems. Others want to retire with enough money to enjoy life, which is becoming increasingly difficult to do back home. That is a major motivator for Pam and I. At 67, I could certainly continue my nice life style in Southern California, but unfortunately, I would have to keep working to do so. Here I could live on 1/4 the money that would be required back home.
The cost of living here is pretty much what the other blogs have indicated. You can rent a nice unfurnished apartment (condo) in Cuenca for about $200- $500 per month. Add Utilities and furnishings and you maybe are talking $450- $700 per month. You can buy these same places for anywhere from $59000 to $160,000 depending on location. We are torn between renting and buying but we are leaning toward renting until we get our feet on the ground. I think that the economy of Ecuador is growing at 9% a year, so people tell us that purchasing is a very good investment. Not sure what the inflation rate is.
Food is inexpensive and free of toxins and chemicals. Transportation by bus or cab is also very reasonable. For 25cents you can take a bus anywhere in Cuenca. Taxis are only about $1.50 or $2 for a ride anywhere in the city.
If we move here, we would sell both our cars in the U.S. and probably not buy another one.
Cuenca is a very beautiful city rich in history and tradition. We took a bus tour several days ago ($5 for a 2-hour tour). Here are some scenes I shot atop a double-deck bus:
In our next blog entry I will take you on an incredible orchid tour called Ecuagenera.
For now, adios, hasta luego.
Tony and Pam
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